How to Applique
The first appliques I ever made were on stockings “Mrs. Claus” made for College Boy, Princess and Angel Face. I didn’t know anything about applique, but I stumbled along and managed to do a fairly decent job.
Since then I’ve ahem… “Mrs. Claus” has made stockings for Jo-Bear, Z-Man, Little Guy, and Teacher. And grandmas, grandpas, aunts, uncles, cousins, you name it. I think the only ones in our family who don’t have an appliqued stocking yet are Great Grandma and me – go figure!
I loved applique so much that I started making appliqued diapers… but that’s a story for another time. The point is that over the years I’ve made a LOT of appliques and learned a LOT about how to applique. Now I’d like to share that knowledge with all of you. Don’t be scared – if you can sew, you can applique! Besides, I’ll be with you every step of the way and if you run into problems you can contact me. So grab your fabric scraps and put on your creativity hat – you’ll be surprised how easy and addicting applique is!
Supplies
Obviously you’ll need basic sewing necessities like a sewing machine, scissors, thread, needles, pins, etc. In addition, you will also need:
- A regular pencil
- Plain or tracing paper
- An iron
- A water or air soluble marking pen or pencil
- Paper backed iron-on adhesive, like Heat n Bond™
- Tear away stabilizer, standard type
- Fabrics for the applique, prelaundered as the finished product will be laundered.
How to Applique – Step by Step
I did my best to explain each step thoroughly, but feel free to contact me if you’re confused about something.
1. Draw Your Applique Design
The first you need is a design to applique. A simple design with straight sides is easiest for beginners, so consider starting with a block, kite or star. If you’re an experienced seamstress you may want to try a design with curves, like a heart or balloon. I’m working on one of my elephant designs in the examples.
Either draw your design on the plain paper, or trace the design onto the tracing paper. Keep in mind that the finished applique will be a mirror image of your tracing.
2. Trace onto the Iron-On Adhesive
Place the iron-on adhesive on top of your design, paper side up, and trace your design onto the adhesive. If your design is made up of more than one element, like the elephant and heart, you will need to trace each section separately.
If there are sections next to each other, you need to decide which will go on top of the other. When tracing, extend the line of the bottom section about 1/4 inch where it touches the top one. This will allow you to layer the sections so there won’t be any gaps in between them.
3. Rough Cut the Design
After your design pieces are traced, you need to separate them from the rest of the adhesive. Cut around your tracing lines, about 1/2 to 1 inch away from the lines.
4. Choose Your Fabrics
This is one of my favorite steps – choose the fabric for each section. To make selecting easier I separate my fabrics into color families. Cotton woven fabrics are the easiest to work with, although you may want to experiment with other fabrics as you gain experience. Beware of fabrics that fray because they often shred when laundered, and thicker fabrics like corduroy or velvet may be too difficult for some machines to handle smoothly.
5. Fuse the Fabric to the Adhesive
Heat your iron according to the directions that came with the adhesive. When the iron is hot, place the preshrunk fabric right (front) side down on your ironing surface and press to remove any wrinkles. Be sure to put the side you want to use face down so you’re looking at the back of the fabric. Double and triple check before ironing – I can’t tell you how many times I wasn’t paying attention and fused the adhesive to the front of my fabric! Place the adhesive, paper side up, on the wrong (back) side of your fabric. Fuse according to the directions that came with your adhesive.
6. Cut out the Sections
Cut out each section, following the tracing lines carefully.
7. Remove the Adhesive Backing
Carefully peel the paper backing from the iron-on adhesive. If the backing is difficult to separate from the adhesive, tear the edge of the paper a little to get things started, or use a fingernail to separate the paper from the fabric.
8. Iron the Applique to Your Item
Place the applique, adhesive side down, on the item you’re going to apply it to and arrange the sections to match your pattern. If you have several pieces you may need to look at the pattern to remember how the sections fit together. When the applique looks the way you want it to, iron it down according to the directions that came with the adhesive.
9. Add Some Details
Using the water soluble pen or pencil, draw in any details you wish to add to the applique.
10. Stabilize with Interfacing
Cut a piece of tear-away interfacing large enough to cover the entire applique with a border of about 1/2 – 1 inch. Place the interfacing on the wrong side of the item you’re appliquing, under the applique. Now this part is a little tricky – holding the interfacing tightly, flip the item over and pin the interfacing on from the front. (You can see a pin in my next photo) If the item you’re appliquing is thin enough, you hold it up to a light to make sure the entire applique has interfacing behind it. If the item is too thick to see through you’ll have to check by feel.
11. Stitch Your Applique
Now comes the fun – stitching! Use a Satin stitch if your machine has it, otherwise use a Zig Zag stitch and decrease stitch length until the threads are sewn right next to each other. Most sewing machine manuals recommend loosening the top thread tension for applique work, but be sure to check your own machine’s manual for directions. Using a scrap piece of fabric, experiment with stitch width and length until you find an effect you like. You want the thread to go into the applique fabric on one side and into the background fabric on the other, so the raw (unstitched) edge of the applique is completely encased in thread. On my Viking I generally use a stitch length of .3 and a width of 3.5, but each machine is different so these numbers may not work for you. Once you find the stitch length and width you like, write them down somewhere so you don’t forget – the owner’s manual is a good place. Unless you tend to lose them like I do.
Line the applique up so the raw (unstitched) edge is in the middle of your presser foot and start stitching. Go slowly at first, until you gain some confidence. Slow down as you approach a curve or corner so you don’t overshoot the edge. There are several ways to turn corners; try different ways until you find one that works for you. The way I round a corner is by stitching to the end of the fabric until the thread is even with the bottom edge of the fabric. Then I sink the needle in the very outermost point of the corner, where the two sides meet. Raise the presser foot, leaving the needle sunk into the fabric, and pivot the fabric to the right so the raw edge is lined up in the middle of the presser foot. Lower the presser foot and continue sewing.
Curves are easier than corners, and wide curves may not require any pivoting. Stitch wide curves slowly so the stitches remain even. Sharp curves may require a pivot to keep the raw edge in the middle of the presser foot. When stitching an outer corner, like the outside of an O, stop with the needle down on the background fabric, then pivot just enough to line the raw edge up. When stitching an inner corner, like the inside of an O, stop with the needle down in the applique fabric and pivot just enough to keep the raw edge in the center of the presser foot.
Remember to stitch the details you marked earlier. I generally narrow my stitch width by one setting for inner details. Remember to backstitch whenever you begin and end stitching so your stitching doesn’t come out later. I realize this photo doesn’t show the raw edge in the center of the presser foot – I was about to pivot around the curve when I took the photo. See the pin holding the interfacing to the background fabric? Since taking this photo I’ve moved my pins to the edge of the applique so there aren’t any holes in the PUL.
12. Trim the Threads
Wen you’re all done stitching carefully trim the loose threads as close to the fabric as you can without cutting the fabric or stitching. I trim the font first because any tiny ends are usually pulled to the back when I grab those threads to trim them. Using a small, sharp scissors makes it easier to trim closely.
13. Remove the Interfacing
Remove the interfacing by tearing along the stitching. Your needle will have perforated the interfacing so it should come away fairly easily. Use a fingernail along the stitching to get things started, but do not use your scissors or anything sharp as it might poke through the applique. Don’t ask how I know this, it’s a tragic memory.
Congratulations – you’ve made your first applique! Now go show everyone what a fantastic applique you made, then send me a picture so I can see too. I hope you had as much fun doing applique work as I do!
35 Responses to “How to Applique”
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On November 29th, 2007 at 10:14 am
cursor_mortis said:
Is “Mrs. Claus” going to make Erin a stocking, too?
On November 29th, 2007 at 10:23 am
Amy Sue said:
Depends, is she on Santa’s Nice list or Naughty list?
On November 29th, 2007 at 9:37 pm
cursor_mortis said:
I dunno. I’d have to ask the big guy myself.
BTW, I love that the button to leave comments says “Press me now.”
On January 20th, 2008 at 8:43 pm
Loanna said:
Do you have any problem with your needle gumming up and breaking the thread? If so whats the trick. Its really annoying.
On January 20th, 2008 at 8:52 pm
Amy Sue said:
Sometimes it collects a bunch of “goop” toward the top of the needle. When I see a gob collecting I pause and pull it off. Where does yours collect, by the eye or the top? (There’s probably a term for the end opposite the eye, but I dunno what it is.)
~Amy Sue
On August 12th, 2008 at 10:59 am
Lori Lane said:
Wow!!!! I’m wanting to start learning how to do this and this is by far the most explanatory and easy to understand instructions I have found. Thanks so much for taking the time to do this!
On October 20th, 2008 at 3:26 pm
Jane said:
thanks!!! easiest method ive found yett
On November 24th, 2008 at 9:49 am
Melissa said:
I’m doing applique with double sided fusible web and then stitching around the edges with embroidery floss by hand. Do you have any suggestions for a way to cover the back of the applique so that the stitches and knots don’t irritate a baby’s skin? I was looking for a way to do interfacing on the back, but tear away wouldn’t really cover the knots. I was wodering what you thought about an iron on interfacing? Would it be even more rough feeling?
On November 24th, 2008 at 12:10 pm
Amy Sue said:
You could try an iron-on interfacing; most of them are pretty soft on the back, but it’s a toss-up whether it will stay on or not. I’ve had both commercial and hand-made items with iron-on interfacing and sometimes it stays on sometimes it doesn’t. There doesn’t seem to be a pattern as to which stays and which doesn’t.
It’s worth a try though, and if it falls off you can always iron another piece on.
~Amy Sue
On November 29th, 2008 at 8:50 pm
Autumn said:
OK question~I made a shirt with my school’s name but I didn’t use interfacing should I? it was just a practice shirt so I’m not too worried about it~it’s at my blog if you want to check it out! Also, is there a way to embrodier appliques? I keep seeing this on sites and was wondering if I was missing something~thanks for the instructions!
On November 29th, 2008 at 10:22 pm
Amy Sue said:
Autumn, Do you mean interfacing behind the finished applique, like Melissa was talking about? If so, it shouldn’t make a difference as long as your stitching ends aren’t loose.
If you mean the tear-away interfacing from step 10 above, it could make a difference. The interfacing keeps the fabric from puckering as you’re stitching. If your shirt fabric has enough “body” you may be OK without it, but using it will give you a smoother-looking applique.
Embroidered applique is done with an embroidery machine, instead of by hand with a sewing machine. You can see a tutorial here.
Although embroidered applique is very pretty, I prefer the personal touch of hand-guided applique to machine-guided embroidered applique.
~Amy Sue
On January 12th, 2009 at 3:01 pm
Debbie said:
I don’t have a machine; can I finish the edges by hand? If so, what’s the name of the stitch I should use?
On January 16th, 2009 at 12:11 pm
Amy Sue said:
Yes, you can finish the edges by hand! If your applique is made from woven fabric it will ravel unless you turn the edges under. Some people like the shabby chic look of a slightly ragged edge, but if you don’t here’s what to do:
- Apply Wonder Under as above.
- Cut your applique piece about 1/4″ larger all the way around. This is easier to do with larger pieces and simple shapes.
- Leave the paper on the Wonder Under and carefully fold the 1/4″ allowance to the back.
- Press the edges with an iron so they’ll stay.
- Remove the paper backing from the Wonder Under, refold the allowance, and proceed as above.
- Instead of machine stitching, use an invisible stitch
Good luck!
~Amy Sue
On January 26th, 2009 at 10:32 pm
Debbie said:
Thanks, Amy Sue! What a big help! I’ll try the Shabby Chic look first, and if I don’t like it I’ll try the other method. If I use the Shabby Chic approach, I guess it doesn’t matter what stitch I use? It could be invisible, whipstitch, or blanket stitch?
On January 26th, 2009 at 10:50 pm
Amy Sue said:
You’re welcome Debbie! If you’re going for the shabby chic look I’d do either a blanket stitch or a plain “running” stitch. You know – up/down up/down along the edge. Be sure to show off pics when you’re done!
~Amy Sue
On January 27th, 2009 at 1:32 am
Cynthia said:
Can I iron on an applique onto an already finished AIO or pocket diaper? The material would be PUL. Want to make sure that the heat of the iron won’t warp or damage the PUL on the diaper. Thanks! -Cynthia
On January 27th, 2009 at 9:37 am
Amy Sue said:
I haven’t ever tried ironing an applique on a finished diaper, but I do iron mine on PUL diaper cuts. You need to keep the iron moving and try not to iron over any more of the PUL than you have to. An iron that is too hot or left in one place too long can cause the PUL to shrink slightly and wrinkle up, or even to melt.
I wouldn’t advise ironing an applique onto a finished diaper unless you have some way to sew it on also. Appliques that are only ironed on won’t stand up to the vigorous washing that most diapers receive.
~Amy Sue
On March 7th, 2009 at 3:54 pm
Chantelle said:
Thanks for a wonderful tutorial, this is just what I was looking for! My PUL melted on the first try, but I’ll keep working to perfect it. Thanks again!
On March 7th, 2009 at 4:29 pm
Chantelle said:
Ok, I didn’t melt the PUL! And instead of using the tear away stabilizer, I used a piece of PUL in an effort to keep it from leaking (plus I didn’t have the stabilizer on hand either
P). I put the wrong sides of the PUL together. It worked great for doing the applique, but it leaks. Any tips?
Perhaps my leak test wasn’t “true to life” (I pressed a wet cloth against the back of the applique, lightly, and there was a perfect wet outline of my applique on my cloth underneath
( ).
Well, I’m having fun doing appliques though, something I’ve always meant to try, and your tute made it simple! Thanks again!
On March 7th, 2009 at 9:05 pm
Amy Sue said:
Chantelle,
Using a second layer of PUL will only prevent leaking if you don’t sew through it – if you sew through both layers it’ll still leak because the needle holes will go through both layers. Keep trying until you find the technique that works best for you!
~Amy Sue
On March 24th, 2009 at 12:11 pm
Audi said:
What is the difference between applique and embroidery?
On March 29th, 2009 at 4:01 pm
Amy Sue said:
Audi,
That’s a great question! There are several major differences between applique and embroidery. Embroidery designs are usually stitched by an embroidery machine using threads in different colors. As I understand it, once the design and threads are selected and the machine is all set up you just need to start the machine and keep an eye on it – it sews the design pretty much by itself. Applique designs are made from fabric pieces that are stitched around the edges with thread, and can be done on a regular machine. Applique is generally more “handcrafted” because even though a sewing machine is used, the machine must be guided by hand.
I hope this helps,
~Amy Sue
On June 11th, 2009 at 9:25 pm
Kari said:
Amy Sue,
Thanks so much for your instructions. I have been doing applique for several years, myself. I am experiencing problems with the edges coming lose after several washing. I really can’t figure out what I am doing wrong. Maybe I am using the wrong brand of fusible. I think one time I might not have used any fusible on the squares I was placing on a purse but I do use a stabilizer on the back (tear away) and front (dissolved with water) and the squares still came loose. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Kari
On June 12th, 2009 at 6:15 pm
natalie said:
These are the most easy and well illustrated instructions I’ve found online. Thanks!
On June 16th, 2009 at 9:31 pm
Amy Sue said:
Kari,
I use the heavy duty “no-sew” fusible and sew through it. I’ve found that their idea of no-sew and my idea of no-sew aren’t the same; I want my item to stay on no matter what and if I don’t sew it won’t.
How are you sewing your applique – straight or satin stitch? If you’re doing a straight stitch the edges probably will come loose over time and use. That’s why I prefer to use a satin stitch, unless you’re going for a shabby chic look.
Stabilizer won’t help the applique stay on the item; it just makes the sewing easier and keeps the stitches smoother.
I hope that helps! Feel free to post any other questions!
~Amy Sue
On June 28th, 2009 at 12:28 am
Christina said:
I was wondering if sewing the appliques on PUL makes YOUR diapers leak? I’m only asking because I want to make an appliqued diaper, but I don’t want it to leak either. Thanks!
On July 6th, 2009 at 2:03 pm
Amy Sue said:
Christina,
Any stitching through PUL can cause it to leak: applique, embroidery, elastic casings, etc. I put an extra layer of PUL behind all of my appliques so they don’t leak. Some WAHMs iron an extra piece to the inside, shiny sides together, but I haven’t had consistent results with this so I cut my PUL big enough to catch in the seams.
Be sure to post a link showing off your appliqued diaper when it’s done, I’d love to see it!
~Amy Sue
On July 23rd, 2009 at 2:05 am
Christina said:
Hi Amy…I finally got around to making my appliqued diaper! I think it turned out great for my first one. I got a litle over-zealous and decided I wanted to do 8 mo old DS’s handprints…I messed up a little on the left hand but the right one turned out much better. I think it turned out super-cute overall!
I also borrowed your idea of using another piece of PUL to back the applique…it worked great!!!
Here’s the link so you cam see my completed diaper http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b85/AteManager/Diapers/newPicture130.jpg
Thanks for the WONDERFUL tutorial…you made it super easy to learn!
On September 4th, 2009 at 8:58 pm
Michelle said:
Thank you for a GREAT tutorial!!! I was told by my MIL that tissue paper works just as well as tear-away stabilizer. Has anyone tried tissue paper? I’d like to try appliqueing this weekend but I don’t feel like driving an hour to Joanns for stabilizer.
On September 8th, 2009 at 9:08 pm
Syl said:
Fantastic instructions and have attemtped to do some but am having problems with the needle holes left around the edge of the applique!!!! I am using a Sharps # 8 needle and have changed from a loose thread count to a denser thread count but still have the needle holes!!!! What am I doing wrong?
Cheers
Syl
On December 15th, 2009 at 9:55 am
Ruth said:
Freezer paper works well. Just iron it on, sew, then tear it away.
On January 24th, 2010 at 11:16 am
Julie said:
Thank you so much … That’s exactly what I wanted to do but wasn’t sure how to …
Just to be sure I understand …
If I do not use interfacing, I must put a second layer of pul. If I put the interfacing, I do not need to put another layer of pul … Is that correct? I’m afraid of leaks.
Julie
On January 24th, 2010 at 11:19 am
Julie said:
Ok, I think I understand … I need to put a second layer of pul … so it would not leak … thank you again!
On February 5th, 2010 at 10:14 pm
Debbie said:
When you applique do you use embroidery thread as if you are embroidering.
Thanks Debbie
On February 7th, 2010 at 8:34 pm
Amy Sue said:
Debbie,
I use plain old Guttermann poly thread, like I’d use for sewing clothing. Embroidery thread may work for some projects, but I’m usually working with children’s clothing which needs a thread that will hold up to lots of laundering.
~Amy Sue